Michoacan Magico: exploring Morelia and Janitzio in this underrated state of Mexico

WELCOME TO MICHOACAN, MEXICO

As a state that spans from central Mexico all the way to the coast, the diversity in cultures and landscapes makes Michoacán one of my personal favorite places in Mexico. The tourism industry has not been built up as much as other states such as Oaxaca, so you are much more likely to have an authentic local experience and also means your peso will go back to the local communities. People are most brought to Michoacan for the city of Morelia, for the monarch butterflies (winter monts) in the mountains, and for Dia de Muertos. The flip side is that there is a lot of crime and violence throughout the state, so do your research, especially before driving through certain roads without a local guide.

That being said, like most places in Mexico, probably nothing bad will happen to you and you will meet kind locals wherever you go, as it went for me in the pueblos of Michoacán . Did I mention the weather is beautiful all the time? Like much of central Mexico, you can expect mild weather with a rainy summer spanning May-August or September.

MORELIA

The city of Morelia should be your first stop in your trip through this state, as the capital of the state and the largest city with a beautiful walkable centro. 

I mostly got around in taxis and also hopped on the combi and colectivos taxis, as it was pretty obvious to figure out which one was headed to the bus station. 

In the centro, you’ll want to stroll through the Mercado de Dulces y Artesania, take in the beautiful cathedral and accompanying Plaza de Armas by both night and day, and make sure to stroll over the university area right by Jardin de las Rosas mid-afternoon to take in the pretty park and cafes.

A little further down the road, I absolutely loved visiting the free Instituto del Artesano Michoacano, which was part museum and part workshop space for artists making their traditional artwork on the spot. Along with the diverse landscapes that these artists capture in their work, there is such a rich variety of different indigenous groups, each that have their own unique clothing, jewelry, and wares.

My favorite part of Morelia’s centro, though, would have to be the square in front of Parroquia de San Jose. I accidentally stumbled upon this beautiful space on the outskirts of the centro and found a bunch of young skaters, couples on dates, and just a gorgeous golden hour light that made me want to sit and journal here for hours.

GETTING HERE

From the cities of Guadalajara or Mexico, Morelia is only 3-4 hours away and there are buses leaving all the time! If you're in Mexico City, make sure to leave from the Observatorio (eastern most) bus station.

If you want to pay half the cost and travel in a fraction of time, Morelia also has a ton of drivers constantly operation on the Blablacar app, which is a shared rideshare platform across Mexico. I use it and have had 80% good experiences, with a few times having my driver be a no-show, so use at your discretion as well as for safety!

WHERE TO STAY

I stayed in OYO Hostel Mich, it’s a chain of affordable hotels and hostels all around Mexico. It is a beautiful and centrally located spot, but doesn’t have a kitchen, so you will probably spend more eating out. 

It appears you have a few more high-rated options on Hostelworld as well but in general you should definitely stay in the city center.

WHAT TO EAT

Morelia is known for its candies and dulces, which you can find sold on the streets or any of the markets. I loved trying the gazpacho, a street food that is a surprising mix of diced mango, pineapple, and other fruits with cheese and tajin or chili on top. Think of how you would prepare an elote, but instead of corn it’s sweet tropical fruits! They also specialize in uchepos, or sweet corn tamales that are my absolute all time favorite Mexican food, so take advantage of these!!!

I didn’t try any well-known restaurants or taco spots in my time here, but for sure you can find some hidden gems with that little Michoacán touch.

TRIPS NEARBY

Visit the Monarch butterflies

The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve is home to millions of monarchs from November- March every year as they come from colder climates to enjoy the mild Mexican winter. I have yet to visit this absolutely magical place, but I recommend looking at roundtrip day tours from Morelia for your safety and for ease of access! Due to climate change and an unseasonably hot winter, I missed them when I visited in February as they migrated away early :(

Visit neighboring pueblos magicos Janitizio and Patzcuaro

I personally lined up my visit to Michoacan with Dia de Muertos, as the surrounding pueblos are considered to have some of the most authentic celebrations that honor our loved ones that have passed on. Fun fact: the Disney Pixar movie COCO was supposedly inspired and researched at these neighboring pueblos, and it did a beautiful job of capturing the tradition with the perspective of the people of Michoacan. When real life inspires a real good movie, you know it's a special spot.

The 30 minute boat ride is pretty easy to figure out, from Morelia bus station you want to take a bus to Patzcuaro and just ask where to get off for Janitizio. You have to walk about 10 minutes and will get to the boat docks where a boat leaves as soon as it fills up. Make sure to hold onto your ticket as it works for round trip! You can bring some chelas or snacks on to enjoy the journey. I got to the docks pretty late in the day but was still able to visit the island and make it back right at dark.

Janitzio is one of the most gorgeous places I have been in Mexico. Small quiet streets wind up a hill to a big statue at the top, where you have a 360 view of the lake below and have a nice plaza, vendors, and if you are lucky a traditional performance like the baile de los viejitos I got to see. The local cemetery is also a spot for people to gather, as with Dia de Muertos, this small little island town celebrates the remembrance of the deceased.

If you have a full day, you should definitely combine this visit with a visit to neighboring Patzcuaro, a pueblo magico with its own charm. I briefly got to see it at night but had to rush back to Morelia on the last bus.

Met some nice local friends on the boat over

Spend a night in Uruapan and hike the youngest volcano on earth!

Paricutin- a young volcano that sprung up and left a church in ruins. This is what I most want to do in Mexico! I have a paid tour / trek already with my guide friend Luis, we just have to plan a day in the future to make it happen. I mean, cmon!

IN SUM

This barely begins to describe the ins and out of what Morelia and Michoacan has to offer as I've only spent a few short days there. I'll keep updating this as I return with more details and recommendations. Until then... what did I miss?